In fact, factory inserts wouldn't have a gap if saws didn't tilt.
Not using a zero clearance insert on any cut that is less than 1.5 times wider than the gap on the factory insert. Having the cut off side larger, even square pieces can get sideways real quickĪ guard and splitter will work very well on through cutsīlade and fence not parallel (some even angle the fence 1º away from the blade), never closed at the far end. No bowed wood actually avoid crooked, twisted and cupped. Things to avoid (and this is by far not a complete list): Well, you're either doing everything you should carefully and correctly or you're damn lucky. Considering it's age, it may be a candidate for new motor bearings and general clean-up. If you have the guard in hand, it should be obvious how it attaches. The guard is also where the kickback pall assembly attaches. The guard drops over the slot in the motor casting near to the arbor flange. The most dangerous machine in the shop is the one you're standing in front of when it's running. NEVER try to yank the blade through the material. Don't count on it to solve all the inherent cautions with a radial arm. Some people prefer a negative rake blade for radial arm saws in general. Your hand never has to leave the carriage handle. For right hand operation, pull the switch on with your thumb - pull the carriage through the material - push the switch to shut off. I really liked the location of the switch. I obtained a DeWalt GWI 5 years ago and turned in the Craftsman motor and carriage for the Emerson bounty.
It worked well for what it was designed to do. I bought it in 1975 and had it for 45 years. I had that model as my first stationary power tool. It's really necessary reading for safe operating. Sears | Craftsman - Publication Reprints - 113.23100 Craftsman 10" Radial Arm Saw (Feb 1975) | ĭown load and print it.
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